Shirts, and collars, collar bands, and the like



July 20, 1937. T. i.. SHEPHERD SHIRTS, AND COLLARS, COLLAR BANDS, ANDTHE LIKE Filed Aug. 16, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l zvenr:

2 sheets-sheet 2 July 20, 1937. T. a.. SHEPHERD SHIRTS, AND COLLARS,COLLAR BANDS, AND THE LIKE Filed Aug. 1e, 1935 Patented July 20, 1937UNi'l'E STAS SHIRTS, AND COLLARS, CLLAR BANDS, AND THE LiKE Thomas LewisShepherd, Brighton, England 4 Claims.A (Cl. 2-127) This inventionrelates to shirts and collars, collar bands and the like. As hithertoused these articles of wearing apparel have been made of ineXtensiblematerial that cannot yield, and they have the further disadvantage thatin the course of time they shrink in size. Moreover, suchinextensibility in hot weather, for instance, isv apt to causediscomfort, and especially when starch is employed in dressing the neckband or collar.

The object of the present invention is to overcome these disadvantagesby making a collar, collar band and/or a shirt neck band, in such a waythat it or they may yield to all movements of the neck, or to thetensions o-r stresses occasio-ned when such wearing apparel is beingfastened in wearing position, and in which the collar band or the likewill not become creased.

The inventio-n principally consists in an extensible collar, collar bandand/or neck band which is made extensible along or adjacent the line orthe stud opening or openings, by interweaving or interknitting a numberof elastic threads in the fabric.

The invention may be carried int-o effect in various ways, and theaccompanying drawings hereinafter referred to show various embodimentsby which the invention may be carried into effect.

The invention will now be described with reference to the accompanyingdrawings in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective View of the invention as applied to a doubleor turnover collar.

Figure 2 is a similar view oi' a shirt neck band made in accordance withthe invention.

Figure 3 is a vertical transverse section taken on the line 3 3 ofFigure l.

Figure 4 is a similar section taken on the line 4-4 of Figure 2.

Figure 5 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a weave which is employedwhen applying the invention.

Figure 6 is a perspective View of a collar according to the invention,which is permanently attached to the shirt.

Figure '7 is a vertical transverse section taken on the line- 1 1 ofFigure 6, and

Figure 8 is a View similar to Figure 5 of a modified weave.

In one way of carrying the invention into effect as applied in oneexample to a turn-down, or double detachable collar, and as shown inFigures 1 and 2, the collar consists of two strips of material a and b,one a comprising the outer turndown side of the collar, and the other bco-nsisting of the inside band which comes next to the neck of thewearer. The outer band w is formed of the usual woven or knittedmaterial, so as to match, or not, with the body of the shirt, and isshown in Figure 3 as being formed in two thicknesses as usual. The endsare cut to form turn-down points, and one of such points are shown: inFigure l as turned up to show the end of the inner band b. The innerband b comprises one or more thicknesses of material oi woven or knittedcharacter, two such thicknesses being shown in Figure 4. In order thatthis inner band shall be extensible it has, when it is Woven, some orall of the warp and/o1 some or all of the weft threads thereof formed ofelastic threads of a suitable degree of thickness, or such threads maybe as iine as those of cotton, silk, wool or the like, and may either beleft bare or covered with cotton, silk or the like. The upper edge ofthe inner band b is attached as shown at d to the turned over edge ofthe material forming the front or the outer band af, so that the two arefirmly secured together each along one edge. The free other edges of theinner and outer band are made with a suitable hem so as to form a smoothedge as seen in Figure 3.

The shirt neck band c sho-wn in Figure 4 and attached at e tothe shirtis made in a manner similar to the inner band b, i. e. it is madeeXtensible by interweaving or interknitting elastic or rubber threadswith the usual non-extensible threads thereof.

The collar thus made may be left either soft or finished with a suitabledressing of starch so that it may possess stiffness. When a soft collaris desired the turn-down points may be fitted as shown in Figure 1 withsecuring loops or tabs c, which are also made with an elastic Weave orknit, similarly to that adopted for the body part of the collar.

In constructing such extensible wearing apparel the inner bland b o-rneck band c is made with all or some of the warp threads, that is tosay, those which run longitudinally of the band, of rubber, or mayotherwise be rendered elastic. In the enlarged View of the weave shownby way of example in Figure 5, it will be seen that the warp threads fare woven with the weft threads g, but one in every four of the warpthreads f is made elastic, as shown at h in a thick line, so that thenecessary extensibility will be given to the band of material. Althoughone elastic warp in every four is preferred in most cases, thearrangement is not necessarily limited to this as i in other cases alesser or a greater number of elastic warps may be used. It will,however, be

of elastic or rubber; or again some of the warps and some of the weftsmay be of an elastic character, so that not only may the amount ofextensibility be controlled, but its direction also be influenced.

Referring to Figures 6 and 7, this illustrates Ithe invention as appliedto a collar which isv permanently attached to the shirt, and, in thiscase, the inner band b is attached by one edge as by sewing at lol tothe top edge l of the neck opening of the shirt. The other edge of theinner band is attached as at m to the turnover edge',-

' of the collar band c as shown in Figure 7. If

l plied to a collar formed from. a single layer ofV Ving lthe usualreinforcement.

necessary when sewing or otherwise securing the collar Vbands or .partsthereof together, elastic sewing thread may be used. In the two examplesshown the end portions of the outer side of the inner band b may betipped or covered as at n, with material to match either in color ortexture the outer band a, so that the lshirt and collar present a neatappearance when being worn. In either or both of the foregoing examplesthe inner and/or outer band may be provided with an insertion betweenthe layers form- If and When desired, such a reinforcing band may be ofan elastic character, so as to prevent the Yformation of any creases,which is of special importance in the outer band.

In a modification the inventionY may be apmaterial, and either turnoveror not. In such a case it would be made as shown in Figure 8 with weavehaving a non-extensible zone o and an extensible Zone pformed by theelastic or rubber warps y. If used as a double collar the nonextensiblezone may be bent over or creased along the line q.

Itis to be understood that by means of the foregoing invention, greatfacility will be afforded forisecuring wearingapparel of the kindreferred to in wearing position, becauseit possesses the characteristicthat it is adapted to yield to a stress or strain incidental to thefastening of such apparel in wearing position. Moreover, whilst it is inwear, it will have the advantage that it yields or gives to movements ofthe body, and thereby increases the comfort in wear, and it is also tobe understood that by suitably arranging the number of elastic threadsin proportion to the usual linen or non-stretching threads that are usedin the constructionY of the woven or knitted fabric, the amount of giveor yield may be controlled; further that this characteristic ofextensibility will compensate for any shrinkage that may happen in theWearing apaosvea Y as applied to a collar, which is fitted with a ridgeas described in my prior British Patent No. 409,327, it must beunderstood that the invention is not necessarily limited to such a use,Y

since the invention is also intended to be applied to a collar which istted with the usual opening for a back security stud, and theextensibility afforded as above described, will allow of a stretching ora yielding movement-in the line `of the usual stud openings of thecollar, collar band or neck band. Moreover, means are provided whereby acreasing of the collar band is prevented.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my saidinvention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare thatwhat I claim iszl. Improved collar comprising in combination, an outerfold of non-stretchable fabric, an'inner fold of permanently elasticstretchable fabric, both folds being attachcd'together along theiradjacent edges, a shirt, a neck band thereon of.

permanently elastic Vstretchable fabric, and means for securing one edgeof the inner fold to the neck band, the elastic stretchable fabricpermitting of extension when' the inner fold of the collar is beingsecured in position.

2. Improved collar comprising in combination, an outer fold ofnon-stretchable fabric, aninner fold of fabric longitudinallypermanently stretchable throughout its thickness and 'the surfaces ofwhich are flat, both folds being secured togetherV along their adjacentedgesA and a shirt with the inner fold, the arrangement being such thatwhen fastening the ends of the collar, the inner fold may stretch.

3. Improved collar comprising in combination, an outer fold ofnon-stretchable fabric, an inner fold of permanently elastic stretchablefabric, both folds being secured together along their adjacent edges, ashirtV and means for securing one edge of the inner fold thereto inorder that the inner fold may be stretched inthe direction of THOMASLEWIS SHEPHERD.

Vneck opening thereof secured to the edge of the

